Search results for: surfing-rogue-waves

Surfing Rogue Waves

Author : Eric Pilon-Bignell
File Size : 63.97 MB
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Humanity is at a crossroads between the world as we know it and the rapid pace of disruption. The smallest changes are reshaping our world faster than we can comprehend. Over the next few years, we will experience more disruption than in the previous 100 years. Do we notice this change happening? Are we numb or oblivious to this change? Are things changing too fast and too regularly to notice? Every modern change presents as a giant, rogue wave emerging on the horizon--will we surf these waves with mastery? Or will we let them swallow us whole? We live in the greatest period of opportunity in all of human history; how will you gain from it? Furthermore, how will you influence and shape both your life and the future of humanity? Do you have a plan to engage exponential change in your life? Our political and social systems are outdated, and potent disruption is heading for them like a freight train. Increased opportunities bring elevated risk, and the public's trust in companies, governments, the media, and even science are all under attack. How do you filter through the noise? How do you make sound, optimal, and rational decisions faster than ever? As the waves of material science, nanotechnology, biotechnology, blockchain, AI, and dozens of other industries collide with one another, rogue waves will emerge and obliterate life as we know it. Everything, including what it means to be human, will be disrupted. We must proactively consider the ethics of tomorrow, today. This book presents a gripping and insightful framework on how to pick up a board and surf the rogue waves of the 21st century. Eric's original insights will help business leaders understand the onslaught of the complexity of the disruption they face. Not just in the office, but throughout the everyday encounters of daily life as they navigate and unshackle future potential. No more watching from the shore. No more excuses. The decisions and actions we take today, no matter the size, will ultimately determine the fate of humanity. Why fight the waves of advancement and progression when we can use them to our advantage? For it is riding this surf where we find our way to a flourishing future that is more ethical, all-encompassing, and sustainable. Surf's up!

The Lost Coast

Author : Drew Kampion
File Size : 50.81 MB
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As energy passing through matter organizes matter, so years of intimacy with the ocean and its waves organizes and alters the perceptions of the surfer. The lulls, sets, and rogue waves; the briny stew in which they tumble and struggle; the continual oscillations of reflective surfaces under shifting skies; the lurking presence of "The Landlord" -- all of this alters the senses while it educates the surfer, revealing the laws of the universe on a scale that can be engaged and understood. This collection of stories will pull you into the world of the surfer -- capturing your emotion and engaging your mind. As varied as the patterns of waves, these stories reveal the joy, fear, longing, and ever-present questions of human emotion and existence. Book jacket.


Author : Evan Slater
File Size : 31.85 MB
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Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.

Surfing in the Cerebral Hemisphere

Author : David Christopher Lane
File Size : 61.23 MB
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This book touches upon a number of cutting edge issues in science, including artificial intelligence and its impact on humankind, Darwin's moral sense and its implications, and how to think critically in an age of paranormal beliefs.

The Surfing Handbook

Author : Ben Marcus
File Size : 83.29 MB
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Whether you’re a beginner trying to get started or an experienced surfer looking to take it to the next level, The Surfing Handbook gives you the tips you need to maximize your performance on the water, with guidance on training and conditioning, technique and style, safety and etiquette, and gear. Written by veteran pro surfing journalist Ben Marcus, this guide is illustrated with instructional photos and drawings, providing step-by-step instructions, background history—as well as stories and tips from legendary surfers and teachers—making this an informative and entertaining guide that will help you to master the waves.

The Wave

Author : Susan Casey
File Size : 51.63 MB
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From Susan Casey, bestselling author of The Devil’s Teeth, an astonishing book about colossal, ship-swallowing rogue waves and the surfers who seek them out. For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100-feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dis­missed these stories—waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a startling number of ships vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something scary was brewing in the planet’s waters. They found their proof in February 2000, when a British research vessel was trapped in a vortex of impossibly mammoth waves in the North Sea—including several that approached 100 feet. As scientists scramble to understand this phenomenon, others view the giant waves as the ultimate challenge. These are extreme surfers who fly around the world trying to ride the ocean’s most destructive monsters. The pioneer of extreme surfing is the legendary Laird Hamilton, who, with a group of friends in Hawaii, figured out how to board suicidally large waves of 70 and 80 feet. Casey follows this unique tribe of peo­ple as they seek to conquer the holy grail of their sport, a 100­-foot wave. In this mesmerizing account, the exploits of Hamilton and his fellow surfers are juxtaposed against scientists’ urgent efforts to understand the destructive powers of waves—from the tsunami that wiped out 250,000 people in the Pacific in 2004 to the 1,740-foot-wave that recently leveled part of the Alaskan coast. Like Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.

Surfing South Africa

Author : Steve Pike
File Size : 59.73 MB
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A follow-up to the classic "Surfing in South Africa", this is a new book, completely revised and updated. Written by Spike (Steve Pike), founder of the cult surfing website, it comprises chapters on history, big waves, spots, culture, travel, oceanography, sharks (including a timeline of shark attacks) and a hilarious 'Surfrican' slang glossary. The book is illustrated with 180 graphics, cartoons and photographs. You will find quirky descriptions of surf spots along almost 3,000 km of coast (watch out for the razor-toothed tortoise), a photo essay of surfing personalities by acclaimed photographer Harry de Zitter, as well as colourful journalism from top writers covering subjects connected to the surfing lifestyle. The full-colour book, which is 110 pages bigger than the previous book, is an indispensable resource. Images come from top South African photographers, such as Barry Tuck, Tom Peschak, Michael Dei-Cont, Andy Mason, Lance Slabbert, Brenton Geach, and Pierre Marqua. The contributors of words added spice to an eclectic mix of culture and science. An original piece by Paul Botha forms the backbone to a much-expanded history chapter. Tom Peschak adds gravitas to issues around sharks and conservation. The brave life of John Whitmore is poignantly remembered by Tony Heard. Ross Frylinck gives gritty insights into the forlorn splendour of the Diamond Coast. Tongue in cheek, Gideon Malherbe uncovers our surfing addiction. Henri du Plessis provides a profile of a committed exponent of that addiction. Tony Weaver eloquently tackles the challenge of sharing the sea with sharks. Ben Trovato romps through issues around surfing evolution and lifeguards in skimpy Speedos.


Author : Douglas Booth
File Size : 85.20 MB
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This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. * Includes a bibliography of primary and secondary sources and current websites * Provides a comprehensive glossary of surfing "vocabulary" * Contains an index of names, places, and terms relevant to the sport of surfing

Art of Surfing

Author : Raul Guisado
File Size : 74.33 MB
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Surfing has evolved from a relatively obscure pastime to one of the fastest growing sports in the world. Today, there are millions of surfers across the globe. The Art of Surfing was the first book of its kind to avail participants, both beginner and advanced, with the same training and coaching principles of the more established and traditional sports. It has empowered both recreational and competitive surfers to prepare for and catch the best waves. This thoroughly revised and updated new edition—with 160 color photos—covers boards and equipment, the anatomy of waves, body position and stance, and techniques for everything from paddling to walking the nose. Special chapters on competition and training, biomechanics, and the psychology of surfing round out this first-of-its-kind textbook for the developing surfer. Inside you'll find information on: · The basics of boards and other gear, the anatomy of waves, and a review of basic maneuvers · Advanced techniques for everything, from paddling to turning to walking the nose · Basic and advanced exercises for improving flexibility, balance, and stability · Strength-training and power-building routines · Cardiovascular endurance workouts, as well as cross-training options · Tips on performance nutrition, and the latest advances in sports psychology A chapter on surf contests rounds out this coaching and training manual. Let The Art of Surfing help you develop a game plan to boost your physical, technical, and mental performance--and prepare to catch the next wave.


Author : Drew Kampion
File Size : 89.45 MB
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Captures the thrill of the ocean's energy in amazing photographs, awesomertwork, and out-of-this-world facts.